60 Days Broad Peak Expedition 8047M Pakistan
About this tour
Broad Peak is named for the immense bulk of its peak. It has a strong presence in its environs. Its local name is 'Falchan Kangri'. Upon arriving in Islamabad, we then fly to a mountain town called Skardu or if the weather is inclement, we travel by road through the Indus gorge to Skardu and the parting point from civilization. Jeeps take us to the road end at Askole, the last village in the valley. Askole is the beginning of the trek to base camp and each night we camp out as we travel up the valley with our Balti porters providing entertainment and color to the otherwise stark and barren countryside.
Our next camp is Paiyu, the last campsite before the beginning of the Baltoro glacier. Then the route to Broad Peak follows the opposite (true left) side of the Baltoro, passing spectacular views of the Trango group, trekking for a further 6 days to reach the base camp. The route involves climbing through a rock gully to Camp I (6000m) then by following a large snow face we reach CII at around 6400m. A final camp is placed at 7400m from where we make the summit bid. The climbing will not be extremely steep but the remoteness of the setting will make this an especially rewarding experience. Whether this is your first 8000m peak or your third, the nature of climbing in this region will have its own unique flavor.
Day-by-day itinerary
Day 1: Islamabad Airport Road, Islamabad, Pakistan to Islamabad, Pakistan
Arrival in Islamabad. Welcome reception at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel
Day 2: Islamabad, Pakistan to Chilās
a) Fly to Skardu PK-451 (09:30 – 10:30). (Flight is subject to weather). Upon arrival transfer to hotel for overnight. b) In case of cancellation of flight (11-12 hrs) drive by coach to Chilas (480 km) on Karakoram Highway. Overnight at hotel.
Day 3: Shangrila Chilas Hotel, Chilās to Skardu Valley, Skardu
a) Day free at Skardu b) If you are driving, complete road journey (08–09 hrs) to Skardu (275 km) En-route has good view of Nanga Parbat (8125m) at junction of Indus River and the rapids and fall of Indus River. Overnight at hotel.
Day 4: Skardu Valley, Skardu to Kharpocho Fort, Skardu
Final shopping day at Skardu. Overnight at hotel.
Day 5: Skardu to Askole
By jeeps drive to Askole (8-9 hrs). The last village of about 50 houses. The villagers grow their own cereals, vegetable and fruit and own large herds of sheep's, goats, yaks and dzos. Overnight in tents.
Day 6: Askole to Askole Mosque, Askole
Start 2-3 hours, walk across wasteland and traverse Biafo Glacier, a tortured Ocean of moving boulders and crevasses 2 km wide. Cross the glacier and after a lunch break continue to Jhola (4-5 hrs). Cross-Dumardo River Bridge and camp at rather dusty campsite surrounded by a few bushes with a side stream. Overnight in tents.
Day 7: Askole Mosque, Askole to Askole School, Askole
Start on a relatively easy trail for 3-4 hrs. Crossing Bardumal campsites along a 2-km stretch of sandy River beach. After a lunch break continue towards Paiyu for another 2-3 hrs. trail climbs to a Vantage Point providing view of the Snout of Baltoro. And in the far distance a magnificent Panorama of Cathedral Towers and triangle of K2 to the left for the first time. Paiyu is a crowded campsite. Overnight in tents.
Day 8: Paiyu Camp, Pakistan
Traditional rest day at Paiyu for local exploration. Overnight at tents.
Day 9: Paiyu Camp, Pakistan
Start for a 5-8 hrs. Gradual climb up Baltoro Glacier on the southern edge. After about two hours the path divides at the snout of Baltoro glacier where the left branch goes to the BC of Trango Tower and the Sarpo Lago pass. Continue to the right climbing up on to the glacier that stretches up the valley 62 km long and 2 km wide. Further 2-3 hours steady climb on a long diagonal to the other side. Follow the southern edge to Liliwa and onward to Khuburtze lovely walks for about 90 minutes to the campsite and with clear water. Overnight at tents.
Day 10: Paiyu Camp, Pakistan
4-5 hours lovely walk mostly along the crest of lateral moraine with stunning views of Paiyu Peak, Chorichi, Uli Biaho, Trango Towers and so on. Urdukas is a spectacular campsite. However, like Paiyu this site is over used and polluted. Overnight at tents. 6-8 hours walk on the glacier. The first hour walk is across difficult side crevasses, however the way is smoother and easy in the center. Continue for 2-3 hours to Goro-I opposite of Yermanendo Glacier falling down from the Mashebrum pass. For the next 3-4 hrs continue east up the Baltoro glacier. Following telephone wire from army HQ Goro to Gasherbrum IV. Goro-II campsite is pitched on the rough stones and ice in the center of the glacier with water from the glacier melt. Overnight at tents.
Day 11: Paiyu Camp, Pakistan
6-8 hours slightly easy walk, with spectacular views and gigantic mountain panorama, including Muztagh Tower, Gasherbrum IV, Mitre Peak and the mighty K-2. Camp at Concordia named by Martin Conway after the place De La Concordia in Paris. Lunch at Concordia. You will be meeting some crevasses near Godwin Austin glacier. Overnight in tents.
Day 12: Paiyu Camp, Pakistan
• Base Camp at 4900m at Godwin Austin glacier • 1st camp at 5100m (Approx.) Site for a space of 3 tents. • 2nd camp at 6400m (Approx.) Site for a space of 6 tents. • 3rd camp at 6870m (Approx.) • 4th camp at 7400m (Approx.) • Summit at 8048m
Day 13: Paiyu Camp, Pakistan
5-6 hours continue walk on Vigne Glacier, proving superb views of Chogolisa, and Mitre Peak, A rare mountain panorama and camp just below pass. Overnight in tents.
Day 14: Paiyu Camp, Pakistan
4-5 hours. Start very early in the morning for the strenuous and steep ascend to Gondogoro la (high pass), and another 3-4 hrs descend to the high camp (Khuspang) on the other side. Also BC for Gondogoro Peak. Continue trek to Dalzampa: (4300m) another 4-5 hours easy descends glacier Moraine to beautiful campsite of Dalzampa "field of flower". A climb to the lateral Moraine provides spectacular views of glacier and jagged spires. Overnight in tents.
Day 15: Paiyu Camp, Pakistan to Hushe River Valley, Saling
4-5 hours walk on the lateral moraine through wild roses, gooseberry cedar and Tamarisk bushes. The Charksa valley joins the Gondogoro at Shaieshcho and the route leads towards the base camp of K6 and K7. Another 4-5 hours the last day of the trek follow the east bank of Hushe River on an easy path through the field and camp outside the village.
Day 16: Hushe River Valley, Saling to Skardu Valley, Skardu
By jeep drive to Skardu via Khaplu. The second largest kingdom in the old Baltistan guarding the trade route to Ladakh along Shyok River. Overnight at hotel.
Day 17: Skardu Airport, Skardu to Islamabad Airport Road, Islamabad, Pakistan
a) Fly to Islamabad PK-452 (11:20 – 12:20). (Subject to weather). Upon arrival transfer to hotel. b) In case of flight cancellation drive to Chilas. Overnight at hotel.
Day 18: Naran, Pakistan to Islamabad, Pakistan
Leisure day at Islamabad In case of driving, complete road journey from Chilas to Islamabad. Overnight at hotel.
Day 19: Islamabad, Pakistan
Transfer to airport for your return flight home.
Day 20: Islamabad, Pakistan to Rawalpindi, Pakistan
Farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Overnight at hotel.
What's included
Cost Includes Liaison with ministry of tourism in Islamabad for permit process and measurement of Liaison officer. Process of import/export permit from ministry of tourism. Assistance upon arrival/departure. Welcome reception/farewell meeting at Alpine Club of Pakistan. Hotel accommodation at Chancery hotel in Islamabad, Panorama Hotel (Chilas) and Shangrila (Skardu) with all meals. All meals during trek and 30 days at B.C Porterage of 75 kg per person of expedition equipment and high altitude food etc. to the B.C and 50 kg per person on return from BC. Road transfers between airport/hotel and within city as per itinerary. Sleeping tents for BC, mattresses, mess tent, kitchen tent and toilet tent with tables/field stools, camping ground fees and bridge crossing. Kitchen equipment, crockery, cutlery, fuel and related community gear. Wages and basic kit of guide, sirdar, cook and assistant(s). Insurance of our field staff and low altitude porters (except helicopter rescue). Porterage at airports, hotels, toll taxes and parking fee etc. Letter of guarantee on behalf of team/client for environmental bond for USD 1000. Mail handling/forwarding to BC/overseas except postage charges. Reconfirmation of air tickets. Hiring of HAPs, mail runner(s) and any other crew as per requirement. (Wages and kit to be arranged by the team). Any other service not mentioned in this condition sheet. Above quotation is based on present porter rates and valid for 2020.
Cost Excludes International & domestic airfare, airport tax, excess baggage charges. Surface transfers in case of flight cancellations to the kick off point. Liaison Officer kit and equipment, allowances, travel, hotels, meals and insurance and his personal expenses of any kind. High altitude porters/any crew above BC. Sleeping bags, personal and climbing equipment of any kind beyond base camp including high altitude food and oxygen. Medications, ground evacuations and helicopter rescue charges for expedition members and local staff assigned with the expedition whose insurance cover does not include heli rescue. Room services, laundry, beverages, phone/communication bills and items of personal nature. Insurance liability of member(s) and other under force majeure conditions. Royalty fee, Pollution (USD 200 non refundable) and Environmental fee if required to be paid by the Government of Pakistan. Clearance of cargo and clearing agent’s charges before arrival of the team and its storage. Any other service not mentioned in this condition sheet. Tips to field staff, drivers and porters. ISB/KDU or V.V. airfare is USD 85 per person one way for economy class. Airfare is subject to change without advance notice by the airline. In case of cancellation of flight, we will be pleased to provide surface transfer in an exclusive coach in the same cost of airfare.
What to know
Why should you register very early? 1. Team building: It takes time to formulate a good team. We go through all incoming applications and formulate the best team of mountaineers (on the basis of experience). Although our vet process is not very strict, our top priority is always the safety of fellow climbers. We will not accept all applications only to maximise the number of the mountaineers. 2. Logistics: Our climbing adventures involve a lot of logistics. This includes reserving/assigning high altitude porters, guides and other staff in advance. It also involves a lot of procurement (equipment, food etc). This is not possible during the last hours. During winters expeditions, most of the supplies are transported to base camps two to three months prior to the expedition because winters in the mountains of Pakistan are very harsh and it becomes almost impossible to for porters to walk through the trail with heavy supplies. 3. Permit: Pakistani government tourism laws require tour operators to submit applications for climbing (along with all documents e.g. passport copies, photos, CVs etc) at least 70 days prior to arrival in Pakistan. Domestic Flights: We might not be able to get you on the domestic flight to Skardu if you do not pay your deposit on time. Domestic flight seats are sold very fast way ahead of time because there are only two flights to Skardu during peak season. This is a very serious concern. 5. Price changes: The given prices are early bird discount offers and are subject to change. There can be increases in price after January. Service providers including (but not limited) to hotels increase prices in peak-season. Early reservations cost less than peak-season (May to September). Our prices will not change once you have paid the deposit so the price when you book is the price you will pay. Register yourselves early to avoid increase in holiday prices.
Route & locations
Islamabad Airport Road, Islamabad, Pakistan to Islamabad, Pakistan